2020. 2. 16. 18:13ㆍ카테고리 없음
I've just aquired a long bed Myford Super7 (or B?) on cabinet stand with suds pump. It has power cross feed, gearbox, 4 way toolpost, metric, & imperial change wheels, 3&4 Jaw chucks, backplate, milling attachments, and all sorts of other bits etc.etc. It's mint with no wear anywhere, I know where it came from and it's done about 2hrs work (Gloat;) If I tell you how much I payed - you'll all be GREEN (smirk)! I've not picked it up yet - I need to throw a few items out of the shed before it gets delivered. Has anyone got the specs. On Super7 & B so I can figure out which model it is? I'd also like to strip it down before moving (I want to move it without a Hernia or crane - how far should I go?
Anybody got spare manual?) Only problem is it's fitted with a 1/3 horse 3 phase motor, do I change it or bodge? I can get a Clarke 1/2hp for £63+VAT (Plus metric 19mm bore pulley at about £7 (not measured the original 5/8ths bore one). TIA - Steve Blackmore Pilot Consultancy Limited. Computer Consultants Telephone 56 Mobile 0831 768478 Email: WWW: Clare 00:00. On Mon, 15 May 2000 01:43:09 +0100, Steve Blackmore wrote: It is a Super 7 B if it came with the Norton gearbox. Put on a standard 220 motor - don't bother fooling around with 3 phase converters on something that small. Mine has no power crossfeed and was built in 1960.
I've just aquired a long bed Myford Super7 (or B?) on cabinet stand with suds pump. It has power cross feed, gearbox, 4 way toolpost, metric, & imperial change wheels, 3&4 Jaw chucks, backplate, milling attachments, and all sorts of other bits etc.etc. It's mint with no wear anywhere, I know where it came from and it's done about 2hrs work (Gloat;) If I tell you how much I payed - you'll all be GREEN (smirk)! I've not picked it up yet - I need to throw a few items out of the shed before it gets delivered. Has anyone got the specs.
On Super7 & B so I can figure out which model it is? I'd also like to strip it down before moving (I want to move it without a Hernia or crane - how far should I go? Anybody got spare manual?) Only problem is it's fitted with a 1/3 horse 3 phase motor, do I change it or bodge? I can get a Clarke 1/2hp for £63+VAT (Plus metric 19mm bore pulley at about £7 (not measured the original 5/8ths bore one). TIA Tony Jeffree 00:00. On Mon, 15 May 2000 01:43:09 +0100, Steve Blackmore wrote: I've just aquired a long bed Myford Super7 (or B?) on cabinet stand with suds pump.
It has power cross feed, gearbox, 4 way toolpost, metric, & imperial change wheels, 3&4 Jaw chucks, backplate, milling attachments, and all sorts of other bits etc.etc. It's mint with no wear anywhere, I know where it came from and it's done about 2hrs work (Gloat;) If I tell you how much I payed - you'll all be GREEN (smirk)! I've not picked it up yet - I need to throw a few items out of the shed before it gets delivered. Has anyone got the specs.
On Super7 & B so I can figure out which model it is? Get the serial number off the bed & give Myford a call - they will be able to give you chapter & verse - including manufacturing date.
I'd also like to strip it down before moving (I want to move it without a Hernia or crane - how far should I go? Anybody got spare manual?) Again, Myford can supply manuals - about a fiver IIRC. Telephone number is 0115-925-4222. Its easy enough to strip these machines down - you can go right down to the bed if necessary, which makes it reasonably manageable single handed.
Only problem is it's fitted with a 1/3 horse 3 phase motor, do I change it or bodge? I can get a Clarke 1/2hp for £63+VAT (Plus metric 19mm bore pulley at about £7 (not measured the original 5/8ths bore one). Spend some of the money you saved on a VFD - no need to change the motor & you will end up with variable speed. Well worth doing. Regards, Tony Website: When replying, delete 'X.' From the Email address to remove anti-SPAM measures. Steve Rayner 00:00.
Welcome to the holy tribe of the Myfordites! Steve Blackmore wrote:: I've just aquired a long bed Myford Super7 (or B?) on cabinet stand: with suds pump. It has power cross feed, gearbox, 4 way toolpost,: metric, & imperial change wheels, 3&4 Jaw chucks, backplate, milling: attachments, and all sorts of other bits etc.etc. It's mint with no: wear anywhere, I know where it came from and it's done about 2hrs work: (Gloat;): If I tell you how much I payed - you'll all be GREEN (smirk)!: I've not picked it up yet - I need to throw a few items out of the: shed before it gets delivered. Has anyone got the specs. On Super7 & B: so I can figure out which model it is?: I'd also like to strip it down before moving (I want to move it: without a Hernia or crane - how far should I go?
Myford Super 7 Lathe Serial Numbers Free
Anybody got spare: manual?): Only problem is it's fitted with a 1/3 horse 3 phase motor, do I: change it or bodge? I can get a Clarke 1/2hp for £63+VAT (Plus metric: 19mm bore pulley at about £7 (not measured the original 5/8ths bore: one).: TIA: -: Steve Blackmore: Pilot Consultancy Limited. Computer Consultants: Telephone 56 Mobile 0831 768478: Email: WWW: - I'm a Canadian eh!. The FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking is at: The metalworking drop box is at Indexes for Model Engineer Magazine from 1950 to 1999 are at:. Visit my website at:.
Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior ito. Virgil.Yield thou not to adversity, but press on the more bravely. Nick Alexander 00:00. I'd also like to strip it down before moving (I want to move it without a Hernia or crane - how far should I go?
Anybody got spare manual?) I wouldn't bother to strip it too far; if you remove it from the stand, and take of the tailstock and chuck, it can be moved by two people with a bit of puffing, or three people who don't mind standing too close to each other. If you are going to change the motor, then take that off, and the headstock won't tend to roll over on you when you pick it up. If you go to you should be able to find some pictures and a description of your machine. Regards, Nick Alexander Bob Unitt 00:00. In article, Steve Blackmore writes I've just aquired a long bed Myford Super7 (or B?) on cabinet stand I've not picked it up yet - I need to throw a few items out of the shed before it gets delivered. Has anyone got the specs.
On Super7 & B so I can figure out which model it is? The basic Super-7 is a changewheel-only machine. The Super-7B is the same machine with the addition of a screwcutting/fine-feed gearbox. I'd also like to strip it down before moving (I want to move it without a Hernia or crane - how far should I go? The basic Super-7 long-bed weighs 111 Kg without the motor, I don't know how much the 7B's gearbox would add to that. Other than removing the stand, tail-stock, saddle and motor, I'd be inclined to avoid stripping it down any more than absolutely necessary.
Anybody got spare manual?) I dare say Myford's would sell you one:- Myford Limited Wilmot Lane Chilwell Road Beeston Nottingham NG9 1ER England Only problem is it's fitted with a 1/3 horse 3 phase motor, do I change it or bodge? I can get a Clarke 1/2hp for £63+VAT (Plus metric 19mm bore pulley at about £7 (not measured the original 5/8ths bore one).
I believe the standard motor is 3/4-HP - 1/2 HP might be a little under- powered. AFAIK it's as standard foot-mount fitting. Bob Unitt (UK) BillDarby 00:00. I just moved one from a basement and never did I have such a slick move. I was armed with the fol.: 1 A friend. 2 A two wheeled truck. 3 A cordless drill with a 1/4 drill bits 4 A sawsall 5 A piece of 3/4' plywood 4 ft by 2 ft.
6 A good length of lifting strap. 7 I forgot to bring bolts and a 2 by 8 piece of OSB came in handy. Yes, I removed the tailstock and chuck. The lathe was unbolted from it's stand and the mounting holes were measured and the measurements used to drill holes in the plywood. The plywood was bolted to the two wheel truck and the lathe was bolted to the plywood such the neither the lathe or the plywood could move at all on the truck.
The lathe on the truck reminded me of the days when I worked on the bull gang at the paper mill but the lathe was never so heavy as a roll of paper on a two wheel. As luck had it we found a piece of 2 by 8 oriented strand board to lay on the steps and I looked after the back end while my friend, standing at the head of the stair, used the strap to pull the truck up the stair.
The previous owner was in awe and commented that he had never seen such an effortless move. Finding the OSB was a stroke of luck and having forgotten to bring 1/4 bolts we had to use 5/16 ths bolts from the origional setup. But it all came together. Bill Darby Bruce Simpson 00:00. Steve, A good cheap book well worth buying is 'Myford Series 7 Manual' (second edition, reprinted 1997; includes ML7, ML7-R and Super 7) by Ian Bradley, published by Nexus Special Interests Ltd, ISBN 0-85242-775-1. Price in Australia A$19.95 so probably less than US$10 elsewhere.
Regards, Bruce Simpson Perth, Australia Steve Blackmore wrote: I've just aquired a long bed Myford Super7 (or B?) on cabinet stand with suds pump. It has power cross feed, gearbox, 4 way toolpostmetric, & imperial change wheels, 3&4 Jaw chucks, backplate, milling attachments, and all sorts of other bits etc.etc. It's mint with no wear anywhere, I know where it came from and it's done about 2hrs work (Gloat;) If I tell you how much I payed - you'll all be GREEN (smirk)! I've not picked it up yet - I need to throw a few items out of the shed before it gets delivered. Has anyone got the specs. On Super7 & B so I can figure out which model it is?
I'd also like to strip it down before moving (I want to move it without a Hernia or crane - how far should I go? Anybody got spare manual?) Only problem is it's fitted with a 1/3 horse 3 phase motor, do I change it or bodge? I can get a Clarke 1/2hp for £63+VAT (Plus metric 19mm bore pulley at about £7 (not measured the original 5/8ths bore one).
TIA - Steve Blackmore Pilot Consultancy Limited. Computer Consultants Telephone 56 Mobile 0831 768478 Email: WWW: Steve Blackmore 00:00. On Mon, 15 May 2000 21:11:14 +0800, Bruce Simpson wrote: A good cheap book well worth buying is 'Myford Series 7 Manual' (second edition, reprinted 1997; includes ML7, ML7-R and Super 7) by Ian Bradley, published by Nexus Special Interests Ltd, ISBN 0-85242-775-1.
Price in Australia A$19.95 so probably less than US$10 elsewhere. Cheers Bruce and everyone else that replied, I'm going down tommorrow to strip it ready for shipping on Wednesday. Steve Blackmore wrote: I've just aquired a long bed Myford Super7 (or B?) on cabinet stand - Steve Blackmore Pilot Consultancy Limited. Computer Consultants Telephone 56 Mobile 0831 768478 Email: WWW: Paul Carre 00:00. Bruce Simpson wrote: SteveA good cheap book well worth buying is 'Myford Series 7 Manual' (second edition, reprinted 1997; includes ML7, ML7-R and Super 7) by Ian Bradley, published by Nexus Special Interests Ltd, ISBN 0-85242-775-1.
Price in Australia A$19.95 so probably less than US$10 elsewhere. Regards, Bruce Simpson Perth, Australia First person to email me an address can have mine - its junk! Design Engineer Polar Instruments Ltd Guernsey Channel Islands Tony Jeffree 00:00.
On Tue, 16 May 2000 10:26:24 GMT, (Paul Carre) wrote: Bruce Simpson wrote: SteveA good cheap book well worth buying is 'Myford Series 7 Manual' (second edition, reprinted 1997; includes ML7, ML7-R and Super 7) by Ian Bradley, published by Nexus Special Interests Ltd, ISBN 0-85242-775-1. Price in Australia A$19.95 so probably less than US$10 elsewhere. Regards, Bruce Simpson Perth, Australia First person to email me an address can have mine - its junk! I have to agree - NOT a great read.
Regards, Tony Website: When replying, delete 'X.' From the Email address to remove anti-SPAM measures. Paul Carre 00:00.
I think I learned more of use and value, from George Thomas, than any other single source in my entire career! He really acted as a catalyst that helped define my Metalworking methods, expectations, objectives and criteria. A huge amount of stuff I already 'Knew' came together under the Mentorship of George, and, while he was alive, we used to correspond at some length.
I have added a tremendous amount of knowledge and experience since then.but I can look to that source as a definite 'turning point' in my life. The book is worth getting!! Teenut Chuck Sherwood 00:00. On Tue, 16 May 2000 15:40:52 GMT, Robert Bastow wrote: I think I learned more of use and value, from George Thomas, than any other single source in my entire career! He really acted as a catalyst that helped define my Metalworking methods, expectations, objectives and criteria. A huge amount of stuff I already 'Knew' came together under the Mentorship of George, and, while he was alive, we used to correspond at some length.
I have added a tremendous amount of knowledge and experience since then.but I can look to that source as a definite 'turning point' in my life. The book is worth getting!!
What's it called? - Steve Blackmore Pilot Consultancy Limited. Computer Consultants Telephone 56 Mobile 0831 768478 Email: WWW: Robert Bastow 00:00. On Tue, 16 May 2000 17:58:03 GMT, (Tony Jeffree) wrote: On 16 May 2000 16:57:04 GMT, (Chuck Sherwood) wrote: I believe the standard motor is 3/4-HP - 1/2 HP might be a little under- powered.
AFAIK it's as standard foot-mount fitting. Myford manual recommends a 1/3 HP 3PH or 1/2HP single phase. I put a GE 1/2 PM DC motor with speed controller on mine and I really like it! Depends which model you're talking about.
The above is true for ML7; Super 7 motors are usually bigger. Mine is a 1/2 horse single phase - came from the factory that way in 1960. Super 7B Tony Jeffree 00:00.
Its worth what it will fetch on e-bay or a lot more if you sell it in bits Suppose some one on here said you should get £XXX for that easy, ask them do they want to buy it for that, the answer will probably be no. My point is that 'an expert' can say it is worth £XXX but unless the buyer is willing to pay that much it's not going to happen. I would suggest as said, put it on ebay with a reserve. If it does not sell perhaps you could shave some off the price. Often see on TV, expert says its worth this much and it sells for less, sometimes its more, but I would still say the best option is auction. Thanks for all the replies. My friend's dad bought the lathe new in the 40's and lovingly looked after it until he passed away last December.
She does not want to see it broken up into bits to sell it. Personally I've become dissalusioned with Ebay as most people go on there to get a bargain. I've lost count of the number of times I've been 'sniped' in the last couple of seconds by people who don't want to bid fairly. I'm hoping to find an enthusiasts site to list it in an advert to sell for her. I've lost count of the number of times I've been 'sniped' in the last couple of seconds by people who don't want to bid fairly. On the one hand you're slagging off people who go on eBay hoping for a bargain and then complain that someone paid MORE THAN YOU for something Make your mind up! Enthusiasts scour sites like eBay for lathes like that - if you advertise it PROPERLY.
on ebay you'll receive excatly what it's worth - no more, no less. Decide on what YOU (or your friend) wants to get for the lathe and either advertise it for exactly that price and nothing else OR auction it and get what someone is actually willing to pay. It's worth a penny less than fcuk all to a quadraplegic but possibly worth half a million to a fanatical collector who needs exactly that model production number to complete his set of 300,000 of them. most people fail uttery to list their goods properly - poor description, crappy/insufficient photos, wrong/insufficient section(s), poor spelling, refusal to deliver, whatever and then blame eBay for the poor results!!!
Slagging anyone off, and I don't mind if someone wins something by paying more than me in a fair auction. I know enthusiasts browse Ebay, and I know how to list things. My point is that your hypothetical 'fanatical collector' looking for the long lost Myford lathe serial number xxx may have bid on mine, been watching it all week, and then 2 seconds before the end of the auction, he gets sniped by someone who specialises in buying lathes to strip down and sell in bits. The 'fanatical collector' may have been willing to pay 3, 4 or 5 times what his current bid is, but as there were no other bids right up until 2-3 minutes before the end of the auction he may have been given a false sense of security and forgot to increase his maximum bid. You will doubtless say that that is his fault, but if this were an auction in an auction house, and someone put a last minute bid in 2 seconds before the end, the auction is extended to make sure that there are no further bids. THAT is what I find infuriating about Ebay.
You can list it in the most perfect way possible, however you WON'T always get what its worth, for the reasons I've just said. You are also limited by who happens to be browsing during the particular week you list it. The 'fanatical collector' might be on holiday!
Now, theres nothing wrong with selling lathes in bits, just not this one. I appreciate now, that she could probably get more for it in bits, but she would rather sell it in one piece. We don't have the knowledge or time to strip the lathe down, and not being experts on the subject, wouldn't know how to describe the component parts in any case.
All I meant was that in this instance, I don't think Ebay is the place to put it. I'm investigating the value of this for a close friend.
Myford Lathe Usa
She knows nothing about the value of lathes (even less than me). Her father looked after this lathe for over 60 years, and we'd like it to go to a good home. And at a fair price.
Now can we all get off our high horses? I'm beginning to wish I never brought the subject up!! No offence intended or implied. As I quoted from your own post, you 'object' to people sniping - you even repeat the assertion in another post. There is no such thing as 'sniping' - the last bid wins. OK, at a reaal auction house they say 'going, going. Etc' to give people a chance to put in another bid but that is both impractical let alone impossible on a website.
There are, probably, auction houses in your locality that will give you the 'real' auction experience if you want to sell it that way. The point is is that you're getting to emotionally attached to an object - you will never know what happens to the lathe after you sold it and you have no right to decide what happens to it after it's sold either - so hoping to sell it to an 'enthusiast' is meaningless as 'I' could pose as said enthusiast, purchase it then strip it for parts. You will never know. The idea that someone has a 'false sense of security' on eBay when bidding is similarly ridiculous - those are the people who want a 'bargain' (the kind you 'do' object to) therefore refuse to put in a price that they are truely prepared to pay - they bid HOPING no-one else will outbid, praying for that occasion when people 'forget' to put their bid in.
Leaving themselves open to the 'sniping' you so disagree with. Anyone SERIOUS about purchasing an item puts in their MAXIMUM bid and that's that. Just like those that attend real auctions - they know what their maximum price is and (if they've any sense) they stick to it. No point in me going on about how an auction runs - I'm probably sounding like a 'tw@t' telling you stuff you already know (but seem to be ignoring). If your feelings for the lathe are genuine and you really DO want to do the right thing by the departed relative then consider giving it to a good home and DONATE IT to the local model engineering club or somesuch. A museum even!